Buddleia, freesia, and fennel pollen waft from the glass of 2006 Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben. In the mouth, I was surprised and thrilled by the sort of tingling brightness, delicacy, floral perfume, and finely-edge suggestions of minerals that were so winsome in the Brundlmayer old vines bottlings of the early nineties but have too often been lost in subsequent vintages to sheer opulence, alcoholic weight, or botrytis. Subtle creaminess of texture beautifully sets off the floral, mineral, and bittersweet herbal notes, leading to a subtly honeyed, soothing, persistently floral finish. And make no mistake, this will be even more ravishing in a few years’ time, and one could count on holding it for 10-12 years at least. Bravo! In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The old vines on the steep slopes of the Heiligenstein vineyard give one of Austria’s greatest wines. This is one of those Rieslings that will last indefinitely, a powerful, concentrated blend of white fruits, perfumes, peaches, very tight and closed now. Racy acidity and minerality shoot through the richness. Give this 10 years at least.——R.V.(12/31/2007)—— 96