The 1990 Estate Chardonnay is much tighter than the less expensive 1990 Santa Barbara, as well as more compelling. The nose of toasty new oak, earthy, buttery fruit, and minerals is followed by a tightly knit, rich, full-bodied, concentrated wine that is a dead ringer for a top premier cru or grand cru white burgundy. Based on past efforts, this wine should last for 4-8 years.