The 2003 Chardonnay Estate requires additional bottle age. It comes across as rich, intense, and attractive, but is restrained, tightly knit, and almost monolithic. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2015. Tel. (408) 867-5832

The mountain vineyard somehow manages not only to beautifully ripen the grapes to a great expression of fruit, but also preserves vital acidity and lends a firm layer of minerality. The result is a big, powerful wine that easily absorbs its lavish coat of new oak. The flavors are of candied pineapple tart, Meyer lemon mousse and vanilla custard, with a finish of sweet, crushed Asian spices. Perfect now, and just beginning to gather momentum. Drink through 2011, at least, with proper cellaring.——S.H.(10/1/2007)—— 95