Estancia, the inexpensive line of wines from the fine Franciscan Winery, has two wines that merit recognition in this profile of the world's greatest wine bargains. The 1988 Meritage offers an evolved, spicy, cedary-scented nose, smooth, medium-bodied, ripe, fruity flavors, soft acids, and light tannins. It is ideal for drinking over the next 2-3 years.