The 2004 Chardonnay Reserve comes from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. It was barrel fermented and went through malolactic fermentation while spending 16 months in oak with lees stirring. The nose offers toast, butterscotch, baked apple, and pear aromas. That leads to a full-bodied Chardonnay with a supple, creamy texture, ripe flavors, and good length. Greater depth would have resulted in a higher score. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

This is big, round and creamy—a California style of Chardonnay—with a dusting of spice and baker’s chocolate. The sweet, appealing barrel flavors include toast and buttery caramel; the fruit seems quite secondary. The difference that Washington fruit makes is the natural acid that lifts the wine and keeps it from getting top-heavy with oak. ——P.G.(12/31/2006)—— 89