From immediately north of Les Millandes, Lignier’s 2005 Morey-St.-Denis Les Faconnieres (the same site that informs Hubert Lignier’s long-running hit, Morey 1er cru) offers diverse black fruits, brown spices, resin and saline notes on the nose, a rich, sappy, sweetly-fruited and formidably dense palate, and an invigorating finish with low-toned meatiness and pronounced chalk and brine minerality. This deserves watching over at least a decade. (And the 2004, incidentally, is a joy to drink now.) Virgile Lignier elected not to filter his 2005s, but I suspected that a couple of them were suffering slightly from their very recent bottling. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($25.00; 86), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($50.00;86+?), 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin ($53.00; 86+?). Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.