For Esporao’s winemaker, Australian David Baverstock, this Syrah must seem like a wine from home. He makes a rich, meaty wine, but it has more structure than a New World version, balancing acidity and firm, dry tannins against the sweetness of the fruit. Great to drink, but could age. Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. ——R.V.(3/1/2006)—— 89