The 2007 Conero Riserva Cumaro is the estate's more important Montepulciano from the San Lorenzo vineyard. The Cumaro sees French oak for malolactic fermentation and aging, which spans about 16 months. It is a rich, jammy red loaded with dark fruit. The richness and concentration here are undoubtedly impressive, but I am not sure the Cumaro is meaningfully more complex or interesting than some of the entry-level offerings. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725