This is another local celebrity from Marche. I have a vivid memory of when I first tried this wine about 15 years ago (it has been in production since 1985), and I remember how it opened a world to me and my appreciation of the versatile and almost always satisfying Montepulciano grape. The Umani Ronchi 2014 Conero Riserva Cúmaro is named after the Greek name "Komaros" for an evergreen Arbutus plant that grows commonly on this stretch of Adriatic Coast. This is a plump and generous red that carries a heavy load of black fruit, spice and tobacco. Enjoy it with some roasted lamb and white beans. It ages in barrique for 12 to 14 months. Some 36,000 bottles were made.