The 2010 Pinot Noir Ewald Vineyard bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of dark red cherries, plums, licorice and exotic spices. There is nothing subtle about the Ewald, rather it is a wine to drink and enjoy for its generous fruit and exuberant personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Adam and Dianna Lee can be counted on for juicy, forward Pinots loaded with fruit. As always, the appellation wines, which are largely made from barrels that don’t make it into the vineyard-designate wines, over-deliver for the money. Tel. (707) 578-3882, www.siduri.com