The wartime vintages, produced without access to sulfur or copper for the vineyards or the cellar, are always fascinating to taste, and the 1943 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes was no exception. Revealing notes of smoky berries, tobacco leaf and sweet soil tones, it's medium-bodied, fleshy and pure, with powdery tannins that assert themselves on the slightly drying finish.