From a perfectly preserved bottle drunk in Burgundy, the 1982 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of sweet red berry fruit, burnt orange, rose petal, cola and sassafras. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it's built around succulent acids and entirely melted tannins. From a notoriously high-yielding vintage, this is a transparent and surely fragile wine, and it's time to drink up, but pristinely stored bottles are still intact.