Ponsot's 1985 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes commands such a premium on the market for a reason: it's one of the estate's greatest vintages of the modern era and one where the connection with the great old wines of yesteryear is especially tangible. I vacillate between preferring the somewhat more brooding, primordial 1980 and the more lifted, ethereal 1985; but comparisons aside, the latter is unquestionably a profound Burgundy, offering up a striking bouquet of rose petals, orange oil, sweet summer fruit compote, musk and violets. Full-bodied, ample and sensual, it's seamless and enveloping, with a pure core of fruit, melted tannins and a long, sweet finish.