Composed of Shiraz with a splash of Viognier, the 2009 Dry Red No 2 presents intense black cherry and crushed blackberry aromas with nuances of smoky bacon, tar and underbrush. Crisp, medium bodied with a medium-firm level of grainy tannins, the palate is well balanced with just enough savory fruit, finishing long with an earthy / charcoal hint. Drink it now to 2015. In 2009 the bush fires that raged through the Yarra Valley in early February came dangerously close to Yarra Yering. In my opinion the 2009 range of Yarra Yering wines show signs of smoke taint. The distinctive character isn't overwhelming but it's there. Apart from the smoke taint and the fact that the wines aren't as concentrated or complex as the outstanding 2008s, they are well made and palatable. But collectors be aware, there is a slight burnt-wood / ash character to the wines, showing most in a distinctive and slightly bitter flavor at the back of the palate. Some of the wines display the character more, especially the 2009 Dry Red No 1 and the Underhill Shiraz. Research seems to suggest that the smoke taint character could become more pronounced with aging, so if readers do want to buy these wines I would recommend they drink them sooner rather than later.Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

Focused, complex, harmonious and distinctive, this red's meaty, savory overtones add depth to the glow of plum, currant and mineral flavors, which all glide easily through the long finish. Shiraz and Viognier. Drink now through 2025. 50 cases imported. -HS