The 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Chaumees smells of fresh lemon, toasted nuts, as well as floral hints, and as such less obviously ripe or fruity than most of the wines in Philippe Colin's 2007 collection. A silken refinement of texture and refreshing citrus and a hint of white peach on the palate segue into a satisfying finish slightly marked by detached oak elements that may well integrate with time in bottle. I suspect this will be worth following for 3-5 years. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524