For a reasonably good value in a non-wood aged, tank-fermented, fruity wine, check out Le Pupille's 1995 Morellino di Scansano. The wine exhibits a ruby/purple color, a fruity, soft texture, excellent ripeness and richness, medium body, and good freshness. Made from 85% Sangiovese and 15% Alicante, it can be served slightly chilled, but it requires drinking over the next 2-3 years for its vibrancy and freshness. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620