The basic dry wine, the 2005 Jurancon Chante des Vignes (100% Gros Maseng) is perfect for present consumption (and release of wines is leisurely at this estate because the appellation deserves it). Pineapple fruit is accented by hints of honey, musk, and brown spices, all signaling late harvest (even though this is picked early by the estate’s standards). Sultry, smooth, and subtly oily on the palate, this preserves a subtle tartness and cut to balance the honeyed richness of its finish.Henri Ramonteu’s Domaine Cauhape is home to a wide range of fascinating and versatile Jurancons, a genre unfortunately as yet little-appreciated in the United States.Peter Vezan Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93