With the estate’s best fruit, the 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino 25 Anni puts aromatic intensity at the top of its playbill. It opens with a dark, inky color and massive aromas of mocha, toasted espresso bean, spicy cedar wood, tar and black asphalt. Those jackhammer tannins aren’t going anywhere. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. Marco Caprai is a person I have come to deeply admire over the years. He can be rough around the edges, but I suppose this trait has served him well. No matter how you slice it, he is a formidable ambassador for Umbria, Sagrantino and, of course, his brand. He is one of the most talented wine promoters and communicators in Italy today. Importer: Folio Fine Partners; www.foliowine.com