A 2005 Morey-St.-Denis En la Rue de Vergy (from high above the village) offers aromas of pungent smoked meat and juniper berry along with distilled black raspberry. A fleshy, ripely-fruited palate mingles confiture-like suggestions of advanced ripeness with fresh, faintly tart fruit elements. This exhibits plenty of stuffing and fine tannins and finishes with spice, resin and nicely concentrated sweet fruit. I don’t envision a need to wait more than a few years to enjoy it. Virgile Lignier elected not to filter his 2005s, but I suspected that a couple of them were suffering slightly from their very recent bottling. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($25.00; 86), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($50.00;86+?), 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin ($53.00; 86+?). Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.