The 2010 Saffredi (Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) delivers gorgeous intensity and broad aromas of black berry, leather, crushed granite and lingering smoke. It’s a masterpiece on all happy fronts. The textural elegance is superb. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. There is always a single face that identifies a region: A sole producer with the charisma and communicative talents required to perform the ambassadorial duties that bring a relatively obscure wine area to the world stage. For the Maremma, that person is Elisabetta Geppetti. Her newest releases confirm the extreme quality that distinguishes Fattoria Le Pupille. Importer: Winebow Inc.; www.winebow.com