The 2004 Reserva was a bit of a miracle wine when released, as it came from just 2 year old vines. It was simply delicious, but also seemed well constructed. The winery bravely showed this to me again in Alentejo last summer and it regrettably has declined considerably. It was great early on, but it is certainly not sustaining what it originally had. Showing tertiary notes, it seems even older than it is, still with lots of power, but also thinning rapidly, with some touches of oxidation. Still showing all that power, it seems clear now that it will not come into really good balance. That’s not to say there is nothing here of interest, particularly if you like more mature wines – but 2004 in the grand scheme of things is not all that old and this is aging too quickly. Drink now-2014. The Reserva vertical was poured at the winery in Alentejo. Admittedly, this was a somewhat disappointing vertical as the promise shown by the earlier vintages was not fulfilled. For the older wines, it raised more questions than answers. The good news is that the new vintages seem to have regrouped and they showed both more elegance and better balance.Importers: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843; Barterhouse, New York, NY; tel. (917) 463-3076.
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