A graceful white made of an old Galician grape that was nearly extinct before a handful of pioneer-preservationists rescued it from oblivion. Dry and flavorful, with a lovely thyme-sage bouquet and nutty flavors, this smoothly textured wine is worth seeking out. The long finish displays a fine perfume with a similar herb-nut character. This unique white will pair well with a seafood and lighter meats. —M.M.——M.M.(4/1/2002)—— 89