The 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano shows a rustic fringe (especially compared to the super-refined 1999 edition of the same wine) with some aromas of braised meat, pecorino cheese rind, black fruit, smoke and barbecue spice. It’s a wine with thicker bones, chunky parts and more abrupt movements. Having said that, its hearty, hometown-homeboy personality makes it just the kind of wine to pair with grilled meat and crunchy, oven-roasted potatoes with rosemary and olive oil. It’s definitely a wine that brings on your appetite. Drink: 2014-2022.