Bouley's 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is beginning to drink brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of wild berries, peonies, sweet spices and subtle soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, deep and complete, with lively acids and powdery structure, it's seamless and complete, with wonderful purity of fruit and fully mature tannins in this October harvest. If its evolution is a pathfinder for more recent vintages of this bottling, readers with those wines in their cellars have much to look forward to.