The 2003 Sangiovese of this house marks the southern boundary for quality Sangiovese in Italy, and the fragrant and floral aromas, the elegant red currant fruit, the tar and chocolate on the light-grained finish are all quite convincing. Drink: 2006-2010. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; tel. (212) 255-9414

My palate preferred Di Majo Norante’s least expensive offering. At $10, this 100% Sangiovese (which was aged six months in large wood foudres) exhibits a medium ruby color in addition to a big, gamy, earthy, spicy nose, dry tannin, and a pleasant, easy-going finish. This authentic Sangiovese that sells for a song should be consumed over the next year.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Full and purple, with a meaty bouquet that dishes bacon, berry and cookie dough. Great feel, assuming you like yours big. As for flavor, look for plum, blackberry and spice cake. With modest tannins, this is a drink-me-now kind of red, perfect with pizza or pasta.——M.S.(2/1/2005)—— 86