The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley is opaque purple with an attractive array of cedar, spice box, espresso, chocolate and black currant aromas and flavors. Supple-textured, it has light tannin, ripe, spicy flavors, and a pure finish. It will improve with several years in the cellar and drink well through 2030. Tel. (425) 481-5502; www.januikwinery.com

The fruit flavors remain primary, and the mouthfeel quite acidic. It tastes like not-quite-ripe blueberries and raspberries. Give it plenty of airing and as it begins to open up it will show additional streaks of flavor—vanilla, tobacco, and even a hint of mint. It’s deceptive, a better wine than it first appears, but you have to reach out to it.——P.G.(11/1/2007)—— 89