Having fermented through January, relatively late by estate standards, the 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg offers imposing, glossy richness on the palate with a hint of sweetness from sheer ripeness of peachy fruit and a hint of botrytis honey. Scents and flavors of sweet pea, orange peel, and flowers – along with a fresh nip of radish and pepper – set up a lovely counterpoint of richness and freshness, leading to a mouth-coating finish with grip, reach, and complexity, and a tongue quivering in anticipation of the next sip. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

A perfumed, pure, light-bodied wine that has touches of fine acidity and crisp fruits. To finish, there are flavors of pepper, limes and orange peel. This is a delicious, approachable wine that will age.——R.V.(10/1/2006)—— 89