A killer wine (I’m so sorry I didn’t buy any), the 2003 La Mondotte is clearly one of the superstars of the vintage. An intriguing perfume of licorice, Asian soy, black currant jam, ripe cherries and subtle toast emerges from this extravagantly rich, voluptuously textured, opulent, full-bodied St.-Emilion. Just coming in to full maturity, it is pure, rich and full. Drink it over the next decade or more.

This cuvee (from an 11+ acre vineyard planted on a clay and limestone plateau above Pavie-Decesse) performed better in January than they did last year. Minuscule yields of 15 hectoliters per hectare and bottling without fining or filtration after 24 months in new oak have resulted in an outstanding 2003 La Mondotte. Revealing more texture, depth, and persistence than I initially predicted, it possesses a dense purple color along with a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, graphite, espresso roast, new saddle leather, and truffles. This opulent, dense, full-bodied, gloriously rich effort can be drunk in 1-3 years, but because of its power, concentration, and overall equilibrium will keep for two decades.

Fascinating aromas of blackberry, green olive, fresh basil and black licorice. Great nose. Full-bodied, with very soft tannins and a long, caressing finish. A beautiful wine in every sense of the word. Best after 2010. 665 cases made. -JS