Two wines of which Cotarella is especially proud are the 1993 and 1994 Montiano (1200 cases each), made from a tiny 10-acre Umbrian vineyard that produces about 2000 bottles per acre (that is a small yield!). The impressive 1994 Montiano is even richer than the 1993. The opaque purple color is followed by sexy, smoky, toasty new oak aromas, a ripe, concentrated, black fruit character (blackcurrants and cherries), formidable flavor intensity and extract, medium to full body, great purity, and a layered yet structured, rich finish. This is a compelling wine! It should evolve effortlessly for 10-15+ years. Cotarella's highest achievements are to be found in his red wine portfolio. He has gone against the flow of modern day commercial winemaking. For example, he has (1) fought for lower yields, (2) harvested full physiologically mature fruit by hand, (3) utilized small barriques, and (4) bottled the wines with minimal clarification, frequently with no fining or filtration. The current offerings, some of the most exciting reds of Italy, emerge from a largely unknown wine region for reds, Umbria.This wine is from an estate owned by one of Italy's most renowned oenologists/winemakers, Riccardo Cotarella. One of the young geniuses that has revolutionized winemaking in Italy, Riccardo Cotarella is the spiritual equivalent of Michel Rolland in France. His brother, Renzo, is the chief winemaker for Piero Antinori. Cotarella's position with respect to white wines is to preserve their fruit, recognizing they should be fermented at low temperatures and bottled as early as possible.Kudos to Riccardo Cotarella for this extraordinary showing of just what brilliant quality can be achieved from the vineyards of Umbria. As I mentioned, Cotarella is the Michel Rolland of Italy. As with Rolland, whom readers of The Wine Advocate discovered long before he became known to the international wine press, I predict Cotarella will be gracing the cover of leading wine magazines over the next few years.Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869
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