Here is a rock-solid Cabernet embellished by a delicate aromatic embroidery that gives its Piedmont origins away. Dark ruby in color, the nose is perfectly seamless with ripe fruit nuances at the core and generous notes of asphalt, resin and blackberry. The tannins and structure are solid and the wine’s enduring persistence can be counted in long, delicious minutes. ——M.L.(9/1/2006)—— 94