The bulked up, sophisticated, dense ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Barbera d’Asti Camp du Rouss reveals hints of its 20% new French oak aging along with sweet aromas of black cherry jam, licorice, smoke, grilled herbs, and meat juices. Fruit-driven with a subtle touch of spice from the new oak, silky tannin, and decent acidity, it is a full-throttle Barbera to drink over the next 3-4 years.A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9868.