Domaine Drouhin’s top tier is called “Louise.” There are approximately 200 cases produced in a normal vintage. The winery tends to use new oak in moderation; in 2005, three of eight barrels were new. The 2004 Pinot Noir “Louise” has a wild raspberry and black cherry-scented nose, layered, ripe flavors, a velvety texture, and superb balance. It does this while maintaining a lovely elegance. It will provide pleasure through 2025. Domaine Drouhin has been on a roll since the 2002 vintage. Dare I say it, the winery seems to be making better wine in Oregon than they are in France. Tel: (503) 864-2700; www.domainedrouhin.com. Also tasted: 2006 Chardonnay “Arthur (89), 2004 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (80)