The 2004 RESERVA (ADEGABORBA.PT) seemed lavishly oaked on opening, with the American oak nuances fairly prominent. It also seemed a bit acidic and sharp on the finish, although that was often covered up by the lush texture from the oak. It actually came around pretty well on both counts. With some air, its parts showed the ability to integrate into a more pleasing whole. It remained a bit straightforward, but it became an enjoyable drink, with attractive red berry notes and some piercing intensity. This is a bit denser and a little more ageworthy than the 2004 Aragones / Cabernet Sauvignon (Adegaborba.pt) reviewed here, but not always more pleasing. Drink now-2010.The Adegaborba.pt line from this co-op is new, and usually involves a marriage of local grapes to international ones in a modest price range.Importer: Luiz’s Liquors, Inc. and L&B Beverage, Inc., Fall River, MA; tel. (508) 673-1917.

A ripe, smooth wine, dominated by juicy Trincadeira that has been tamed by 12 months wood aging. There’s great spice, toast, dark berry fruits and good concentration. The tannins and the fine acidity promise aging potential.——R.V.(4/1/2008)—— 89