The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is probably the softest, most forward and evolved wine the Usseglios have made under this designation. Luscious, with loads of fig, black cherry jam, camphor and licorice-infused blackberry notes, the wine is concentrated, rich, and while still primary, capable of lasting 15-20 years. It is certainly the most seductive and early drinking Reserve des Deux Freres produced to date, and finished at 15.5% natural alcohol. One of the top estates in Chateauneuf du Pape is that of the two brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio. Their cellars are just north of the village, adjacent to the walls of the ruins of the pope’s palace. They have nearly 60 acres under vine, and make three cuvees of red wines in the top vintages. Their classic or traditional cuvee is made from a blend of mostly Grenache, with some Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre. Their mostly unoaked, tank-fermented and -aged Mon Aieul comes from very old vines (about 85 years of age) and tiny yields, while their cuvee Des Deux Freres leans in a slightly more modern direction for Chateauneuf du Pape, with 50% of it now aged in small barrels, 20% in tank, and 30% in 600-liter demi-muids.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

The barrel-aged, all-Grenache 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres shows hints of cedar and mocha on the nose, then moves into mature notes of leather, date and fig, finishing chocolaty and warm. It's still full-bodied and lush on the palate, but without the freshness and bold primary fruit of its youth, the alcohol has become more apparent. Drink it over the next few years.