The 2009 Syrah Walla Walla Valley was sourced mostly from the Les Collines Vineyard. A brooding bouquet offers up notes of smoked meat, game, lavender, pepper, plum, and blueberry. On the palate it reveals a sense of elegance, excellent grip and volume, and enough stuffing to evolve for 2-3 years. It will provide optimum drinking from 2013 to 2024. Gramercy Cellars was started by Master Sommelier Greg Harrington in 2005. As these wines attest, he is not resting on his laurels. Tel. (509) 876-2427; www.gramercycellars.com

A very firm and well-structured expression of pure Walla Walla Syrah. There is a core of blueberry and blackberry fruit, amply wrapped in sweetly toasty, smoky oak (despite very little new barrel usage). It finishes clean with the characteristic earthy foundation of Walla Walla Syrah, and a streak of rock and licorice.——P.G.(9/1/2011)—— 92