The 1919 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is an extraordinary wine, and it's still so full of life that no concessions need be made for its 100 years of age. Unfurling in the glass with a rich and captivatingly carnal bouquet of grilled ceps, cassis, musk, rich dried red fruits, caramelized orange rind and black truffle, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, its satiny attack segueing into a muscular and concentrated mid-palate that boasts an impressively deep and seamlessly integrated core of sweet fruit, before concluding with a long and sapid finish. This ranks alongside the 1923 as the best Clos des Lambrays I have drunk, but the 1919 has more in common with the broader, more powerful vintages at this address such as 1937 and 1947. Based on the vitality of this bottle, which dominated several 1945s and 1959s that preceded it, this 1919 is remarkably still many years away from decline.