The 1923 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is an extraordinary wine that soars from the glass with a kaleidoscopic bouquet of red plums, dried rose petals, grilled ceps, smoked black tea, vanilla pod and blood orange, marrying floral high notes and savory bass notes in a profound mélange. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep but delicate, with melting tannins and striking mid-palate amplitude, its sweet core of fruit still full of life, concluding with an immensely long and fragrant finish. At this age, every bottle is different—a third bottle didn't hit the heights of these two—but when it's on form, this is clearly an utterly perfect vintage of Clos des Lambrays—and one that will see out a century in style.