From young vines in Musigny plus non-cru parcels, the de Vogue 2005 Chambolle-Musigny does indeed exhibit the character of black raspberry sorbet, ripe yet somehow “cool” with lovely clarity and wafting florality, a hint of wood smoke, and a bright, invigorating cling of ripe black raspberry fruit. This nicely restrained yet well-concentrated wine will drink beautifully in the short run but deserves at least 3-5 years of rest to make good on its potential. Francois Millet notes that skin-to-juice ratios this year were as formidably high as those of 2003, yet thanks to relatively mild temperatures, the fruit retained what he terms a “sorbet-like presentation.”Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770 and a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93