The 2008 Pinot Noir Reserve is 100% Chehalem Mountain fruit. Aromas of white pepper, Asian spices, incense, black cherry, and black raspberry lead to a structured effort with loads of savory fruit crammed into its medium-bodied frame. With excellent volume and well-balanced by lively acidity, it should evolve for 3-4 years and deliver prime drinking from 2013 to 2023. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

7 A gorgeous wine, lush and refined from the first sniff to the last swallow. Rose petals, cotton candy, chocolate-covered cherries—it’s a date in a bottle. As the wine rolls across the palate it seems to gain depth and detail, while keeping the exceptionally pretty fruit flavors front and center. Silky and lightly spicy, with cinnamon, toast, mocha and tobacco highlights. ——P.G.(3/1/2011)—— 95