At the insistence of several American clients, these wines were bottled unfiltered six months earlier than normal. The cuvee that will be sold in Europe will be bottled early next year. Many observers have felt that Leclerc's practice of bottling his wines after more than two years in 100% new oak was excessive. There is no doubting that in top, highly concentrated vintages such as 1985 and 1990 the wines can tolerate more oak than in light years such as 1991 or 1987. The current offerings all performed significantly better than when I last tasted them with Leclerc in November, 1991. Leclerc is now making Chambolle-Musigny-Les Babillaires from a small vineyard planted with 35-year old vines. His first effort from this vineyard displays sweet, surprisingly graceful and elegant aromas of flowers and red fruits. In the mouth, this lush, opulently styled wine is medium to full-bodied, with admirable sweet fruit, and enough new oak to give it definition as well as added dimension. Drink it over the next decade.Importers: various American importers, including Ideal Wines, Medford, MA and William Grant and Sons, Edison, NJ.
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