The voluble, opinionated Jean-Luc Colombo has crafted a Cairanne that shows a lot of ripe Grenache character, offering scents akin to cherries, almond butter and almost peach or apricot. It’s on the chunky side, with some dusty tannins on the finish, so you could drink it now or save it for a few years. ——J.C.(12/31/2008)—— 89