The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is generously infused with smoke, tar and black licorice. This wine is brooding, firm and austere when you first pour it from the bottle. It opens rapidly, however, as this is one of the hallmarks of a warm vintage in Montalcino. Dark fruit and dried blackberry segue to spice, tobacco, cured meat or smoked bacon. The 2012 vintage is more immediate and direct in personality compared to the nuanced 2013 non-Riserva Brunello that is also hitting the market at the same time.