Wafting from the glass with scents of citrus oil, crisp green orchard fruit, white flowers and iodine, Lamy's 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is medium to full-bodied, enveloping and incisive, with a crisp core of fruit, lively acids and a precise, mineral finish. Seamless and complete, this has come together beautifully in bottle.