The dark-colored 2002 Clos de Betz (bottled in early May, 2004, this wine’s name is a play on Burgundy’s Clos de Beze) is a blend of 57% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Its blackberry, roasted oak, and spice scents lead to a medium-bodied core of satiny red and black fruits. Some alcoholic warmth was detected in this expressive, well-fashioned effort’s finish. Drink it over the next 7 years. (Not yet released) Tel. (425) 415-1751 www.betzfamilywinery.com

Master of Wine Bob Betz has refined his winemaking to a style that is breaking new ground for the region. The Merlot-centric Clos de Betz (57% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cab Franc) is incredibly dense, concentrated and inky, yet retains amazing elegance. Its silky mouthfeel, brightness and finesse support supple, ripe, immaculate fruit. It’s all wrapped in pillowy tannins.——P.G.(6/1/2005)—— 93