Lighter in color than the other wines in the flight (’47 and ’55) and slightly less impressive, with hints of tomato and herb sneaking in. It shows a decent amount of ripe fruit, but it’s harder and more austere than either the ’47 or ’55, with a greater dependence on dried spices and cocoa in place of fruit. It’s hard to tell whether this wine is in a closed phase or starting to slide. Drink or hold.——J.C.(3/1/2004)—— 90