The 1977 vintage was not officially declared by Cockburn’s—this sample was from a small stock of 1,000 bottles that was not released commercially. According to Corte-Real, the staff at Cockburn’s felt that ’77 was “not as great as people thought.” The company also had ample supplies of the 1975 in the market, which also may have influenced the decision not to declare. Based on the showing of this bottle, it was a big mistake. Ruby-colored, with only traces of brick and a nose of exuberant fruit joined by toffee and floral elements, you can tell immediately this is special. In the mouth, it’s very supple and elegant, what Corte-Real describes as “a little feminine. Not exactly in the house style.” Drink or hold.——J.C.(3/1/2004)—— 93