Incredibly juicy and fruit-filled, with mixed berries leading the charge, backed by cocoa, chocolate and dried spices. It’s deceptively easy to drink now, but the structure should become more obvious in time. Corte-Real considers it “one of the best vintages ever made.” Worth cellaring some for 50 years to see how it compares with the ’27 and ’55. Hold.——J.C.(3/1/2004)—— 92

——J.C.(1/1/2004)—— 88