The 1994 Rioja Pagos Viejos Reserve is made from 100% Tempranillo (50-year old vines) grown in a vineyard planted at 2000 feet. The wine is given a lengthy fermentation/maceration, and aged for 32 months in 100% new French oak casks. What I find so exceptional about this wine is that the oak is a very subtle component, which should give readers an idea of how rich and concentrated the wine's fruit is. The color is a saturated dark ruby/purple. The sweet nose of lead pencil, cassis, blackberries, minerals, and vanillin is followed by a full-bodied wine with opulent richness, a terrific texture, and sexy, open-knit, candied fruit flavors that gush across the palate with no hard edges. The finish exceeds 30 seconds. This is an immensely impressive, complex, compelling Rioja from a terrific vintage. Anticipated maturity: Now-2014.This estate qualifies as a fabulous discovery. A relatively new enterprise dedicated to producing wines at the top of the qualitative hierarchy, Artadi has turned out four spectacular Riojas. Founded in 1989, this winery's vineyards are all planted at cool, high altitude (around 1500 feet) terroirs. These are brilliant wines that merit considerable attention.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949
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