The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is evolved. A plum/ruby color is followed by aromas of toasty oak, tobacco, black currants, smoke, and spice box. In the mouth, it is medium-bodied, with excellent fruit on the attack, some real charm and roundness, but the finish is filled with astringent tannin. If this wine continues to hold its fruit, it is going to be a Bordeaux-styled, medium-weight Cabernet Sauvignon to drink over the next 12-14 years. However, the tannin will need to be monitored because this particular wine could possibly dry out. Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; fax (707) 251-4386.