This iconic winery in Oakville has meant so much to not only me, but wine lovers throughout the United States. However, Robert Mondavi’s 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is somewhat of a disappointment. Made from a final blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, it is a somewhat restrained, mid-weight effort that finishes narrowly and abruptly on the palate. I even asked the Napa Valley Vintners’ Association (where my tastings were being held) to open a second bottle, and it was identical to the first. Red fruits, earth, incense, black currants and a hint of mint were all present, and while this cuvee is very good, it is not at the level of achievement one expects of this great brand and winery. Fully mature, yet capable of lasting another 10-15 years, this wine would benefit from more stuffing, complexity and gravitas. Tel. (888) 766-6328

Not up to the usual standards for this wine, and it has nothing to do with the new ownership. Tastes better than it smells, with rich, creamy blackberry, wild berry, anise and a dusty sage and cedar edge on the finish. Best of two bottles. Drink now through 2012. -JL

Mainly from To Kalon grapes, this dark, young wine is not showing its best now. It hasn’t pulled the oak, alcohol, acids, tannins and fruit together into a seamless package. The individual parts stick out, nakedly, yet possess an innate balance. Mondavi Reserves age well; this one should start to open by 2010 and hold for years after. ——S.H.(3/1/2006)—— 92